24v timing belt replacement
24v timing belt replacement
Hi guys, any tips or pointers? I noticed the pics have gone off the oracle thread showing the steps involved
Re: 24v timing belt replacement
The REAL risk here is trying to undo the crankshaft nut without the proper item to stop the shaft turning.
Ok, you get away with that by putting the car 'in gear' without breaking anything , another lucky day.
The rest is just being very careful to do everything properly.
Just don't break the 6mm bolts off holding the belt tensioner in place.
Make sure all the pointers line up when the new belt is on and the crankshaft with No 1 on TDC position.
Ok, you get away with that by putting the car 'in gear' without breaking anything , another lucky day.
The rest is just being very careful to do everything properly.
Just don't break the 6mm bolts off holding the belt tensioner in place.
Make sure all the pointers line up when the new belt is on and the crankshaft with No 1 on TDC position.
Re: 24v timing belt replacement
The proper 'item' would be an ideal piece of kit for the club to own and hire out as necessary.
I made one but gave it to the next owner of M515 CEW , for free , idiot that I am.
I made one but gave it to the next owner of M515 CEW , for free , idiot that I am.
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Micron
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Re: 24v timing belt replacement
Hi John, do you have details, can I get one made?
Admin and Owner of this fine club 
Location : South Norfolk
Location : South Norfolk
Re: 24v timing belt replacement
Wow , I've managed to send you an email attachment Trevor !
A piece of 6mm thick by 60mm wide by 200mm long flat bar.
Drill big hole FIRST with a holesaw , big enough for your socket to fall through.
THEN drill the two 8.5mm holes at the same centres as the 8mm tapped holes in the crankshaft pulley.
Slot them to the centre with a hacksaw.
WELD a strong piece of tube towards the end of the flat bar. This is going to stop the crank pulley from turning by hitting the chassis !
NOW you need two 8mm bolts with spacers or loads of washers to bolt this device to the crankshaft pulley in a really solid way.
Job done.
No strain on anything now except the nut when you und0 it.
A piece of 6mm thick by 60mm wide by 200mm long flat bar.
Drill big hole FIRST with a holesaw , big enough for your socket to fall through.
THEN drill the two 8.5mm holes at the same centres as the 8mm tapped holes in the crankshaft pulley.
Slot them to the centre with a hacksaw.
WELD a strong piece of tube towards the end of the flat bar. This is going to stop the crank pulley from turning by hitting the chassis !
NOW you need two 8mm bolts with spacers or loads of washers to bolt this device to the crankshaft pulley in a really solid way.
Job done.
No strain on anything now except the nut when you und0 it.
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Micron
- Site Admin
- Posts: 3466
- Joined: Thu Sep 06, 2018 6:08 pm
- Location: South Norfolk
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Re: 24v timing belt replacement
I got the email John, do you have any pictures of it in situ?jrh wrote: ↑Fri Aug 06, 2021 11:20 amWow , I've managed to send you an email attachment Trevor !
A piece of 6mm thick by 60mm wide by 200mm long flat bar.
Drill big hole FIRST with a holesaw , big enough for your socket to fall through.
THEN drill the two 8.5mm holes at the same centres as the 8mm tapped holes in the crankshaft pulley.
Slot them to the centre with a hacksaw.
WELD a strong piece of tube towards the end of the flat bar. This is going to stop the crank pulley from turning by hitting the chassis !
NOW you need two 8mm bolts with spacers or loads of washers to bolt this device to the crankshaft pulley in a really solid way.
Job done.
No strain on anything now except the nut when you und0 it.
Admin and Owner of this fine club
Location : South Norfolk
Location : South Norfolk
Re: 24v timing belt replacement
No , but it is explained in the Ford Workshop manual .
Essentially , it is using the two 8mm bolts to restrain the pulley from turning when you undo the crankshaft nut.
Ideally, the 'gap ' between the plate and the pulley should be filled with two, single spacers , so that when you do the 8mm bolts up tight the 'bar' is level with the face of the pulley.
Alternatively, stacks of 8mm washers will do !
The 'bar' should not be bent into the pulley cavity.
Essentially , it is using the two 8mm bolts to restrain the pulley from turning when you undo the crankshaft nut.
Ideally, the 'gap ' between the plate and the pulley should be filled with two, single spacers , so that when you do the 8mm bolts up tight the 'bar' is level with the face of the pulley.
Alternatively, stacks of 8mm washers will do !
The 'bar' should not be bent into the pulley cavity.
Re: 24v timing belt replacement
Duncan, I've sent pictures to you too, I would say it will be universal for the 16v pulley.
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