Have you considered just buying a replacement ignition module and change that yourself?Funokata wrote: ↑Tue Mar 03, 2026 2:20 pmAlright I've completed the hei mod, only the ignition module, not the external coil. Was pretty straightforward. No issues and fired straight up afterwards.
But......it hasn't solved my problem.
Slightly stumped, may have to just take a chance on the coil being bad and buy yet another distributor.
At least I may not have ignition module problems from now, half the battle?
Engine brief cut out
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Micron
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Re: Engine brief cut out
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Bengineer_92
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Re: Engine brief cut out
Hello! I have a 1994 V6 too and have just (finally) sorted an ignition issue that would, on occasion, cause issues similar to what you're experiencing so thought I'd share a few things for you to try while it's all fresh in my mind...
1) Check your MAF. It's easy to get to (this is what was wrong with mine). The MAF unit also contains the air intake temperature sensor. If either the MAF or the IAT thermistor have failed, it will confuse the ECU and cause problems with your air/fuel mix every time you start the car. The MAF itself should be clean and slide back and forth smoothly. If they get stuck it will also cause issues. Resistance values for the MAF and IAT are mentioned in the Haynes manual.
2) Have a look for vacuum leaks. This can affect your EGR as well as your VRIS actuators. Vacuum leaks are more difficult to detect than air leaks, so I recommend a cheap smoke machine like this one to help with this. https://tinyurl.com/2pyn3p5j
3) Check your vacuum solenoids (there are loads). The ports can snap off as they age, but they can also get stuck or just outright fail. Sticking twelve volts across them and listening for a click is pretty simple (use your battery and some test leads or a bench supply if you have one). Most of them are the same design (and can be bought from amazon too amazingly) but the ports are slightly different on the VRIS ones so be careful when ordering nes ones.
4) Replace your fuel filter (rules out fuel starvation).
5) It's unlikely, but make sure your fuel pressure is ok. Loosening the fuel supply hose to the rail and briefly priming the pump using the ignition to make sure it's giving decent pressure is straightforward enough but DON'T do this by yourself and DON'T do it while the engine is hot. Get one person to watch the hose and the other to turn the key.
6) Check your distributor and HT leads. There's not much that can go wrong here but they can fail if moisture gets into the cap. Apparently the transistors in the main distributor assembly can fail over time and are susceptible to damage if you turn the engine with any of your plugs disconnected so don't do this!
7) Check your plugs. Clean them and make sure the gaps are correct.
8) Check your ignition coil (I've not done this but it was on my list if the MAF didn't sort the problem). I'm not sure how you'd do this, but I'm sure the manual will tell you.
A couple of the guys on here have recommended ignitioncarparts.co.uk for distributor refurbs/replacements. I didn't get as far as needing to contact them but they hold new/refurbed dizzies so worth knowing about them.
Hope that helps.
Ben
1) Check your MAF. It's easy to get to (this is what was wrong with mine). The MAF unit also contains the air intake temperature sensor. If either the MAF or the IAT thermistor have failed, it will confuse the ECU and cause problems with your air/fuel mix every time you start the car. The MAF itself should be clean and slide back and forth smoothly. If they get stuck it will also cause issues. Resistance values for the MAF and IAT are mentioned in the Haynes manual.
2) Have a look for vacuum leaks. This can affect your EGR as well as your VRIS actuators. Vacuum leaks are more difficult to detect than air leaks, so I recommend a cheap smoke machine like this one to help with this. https://tinyurl.com/2pyn3p5j
3) Check your vacuum solenoids (there are loads). The ports can snap off as they age, but they can also get stuck or just outright fail. Sticking twelve volts across them and listening for a click is pretty simple (use your battery and some test leads or a bench supply if you have one). Most of them are the same design (and can be bought from amazon too amazingly) but the ports are slightly different on the VRIS ones so be careful when ordering nes ones.
4) Replace your fuel filter (rules out fuel starvation).
5) It's unlikely, but make sure your fuel pressure is ok. Loosening the fuel supply hose to the rail and briefly priming the pump using the ignition to make sure it's giving decent pressure is straightforward enough but DON'T do this by yourself and DON'T do it while the engine is hot. Get one person to watch the hose and the other to turn the key.
6) Check your distributor and HT leads. There's not much that can go wrong here but they can fail if moisture gets into the cap. Apparently the transistors in the main distributor assembly can fail over time and are susceptible to damage if you turn the engine with any of your plugs disconnected so don't do this!
7) Check your plugs. Clean them and make sure the gaps are correct.
8) Check your ignition coil (I've not done this but it was on my list if the MAF didn't sort the problem). I'm not sure how you'd do this, but I'm sure the manual will tell you.
A couple of the guys on here have recommended ignitioncarparts.co.uk for distributor refurbs/replacements. I didn't get as far as needing to contact them but they hold new/refurbed dizzies so worth knowing about them.
Hope that helps.
Ben
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Sunfly
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Re: Engine brief cut out
How very interesting!Micron wrote: ↑Tue Jan 27, 2026 11:04 amWhat year is your car? 16v or 24v?
Depending on your replies to the above, it does sound like your dizzy.
Have a look here https://king6fab.com/info/archives/442 it explains how you can fit an external ignition coil.
Out of interest will it work with a dizzy that has failed for the usual reasons?
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Funokata
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Re: Engine brief cut out
Slight progress....I think I may have had two issues. The cutting out randomly while driving/hot has gone now that I have done the HEI mod and put a new ignition coil in.
Sunfly - if your ignition module has failed this will resolve it, but the problem is you can't really know for sure if it's the ignition module or the coil as far as I understand. I've done the mod anyway as the ignition modules are known to fail. I'm still planning to do a write up.
The only symptom I have now is a very brief single stutter that happens just once when the engine reaches operating temp then doesn't happen again no matter how long I drive it.
I wanted to clean the MAF and I have removed the unit but there doesn't seem to be a way to actually get to the sensor to clean it (i bought maf cleaner spray). It seems like a sealed unit that I shouldn't try to take apart tbh!
Bengineer - thanks for the lengthy reply. How did you diagnose your faulty maf?
Not entirely sure where to go from here. Does the stutter when hitting operating temp ring any bells?
Sunfly - if your ignition module has failed this will resolve it, but the problem is you can't really know for sure if it's the ignition module or the coil as far as I understand. I've done the mod anyway as the ignition modules are known to fail. I'm still planning to do a write up.
The only symptom I have now is a very brief single stutter that happens just once when the engine reaches operating temp then doesn't happen again no matter how long I drive it.
I wanted to clean the MAF and I have removed the unit but there doesn't seem to be a way to actually get to the sensor to clean it (i bought maf cleaner spray). It seems like a sealed unit that I shouldn't try to take apart tbh!
Bengineer - thanks for the lengthy reply. How did you diagnose your faulty maf?
Not entirely sure where to go from here. Does the stutter when hitting operating temp ring any bells?
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