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I think that on the grounds of 'safety', all pipes will be double flared.

A fine use for a used brake disc , just weld a 'long-ish' length of angle iron to it.
Place the disc over the studs so that the angle iron touching the ground counters the torque you are applying to that centre nut.
If you succeed in lifting the Probe off the ground you really have a tight nut.

That's brave , just one tiny mistake could create mayhem.

Oh dear, question is , do you do both heads or just the leaking one ?
And always , why has it failed ?

How does the oil look ,has it emulsified at all ?
Plugs out , endoscope in.

Am I wrong in thinking that this condition is what happens if the 'moby key fob' does not match the code in the ECU ?
So you have to 'reprogram' the system as explained in the Ford workshop manual.

Do you have the key fob with the button you have to press , then hear a tiny 'click' from somewhere under the dash before car will start ?
No 'click' , no start.

Your MoT'd car has a complete caliper fitted ?
Therefor it must have a caliper mounting plate.

That is the bit that 'sticks out' and catches underneath the chassis to stop the pulley turning.

Sorry Trevor , I've only got this computer and a 1980's Nokia .
The pics have appeared on Duncan's apparatus.

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Re: Car starts, then stops after a few minutes

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